The Loma Prietan
December 2001/January 2002
Take the Inner State to Tahoe
by John Maybury
Going to the mountains? Do yourself a favor: Get off the interstate and take the
Inner State: back roads and blue highways across the Central Valley and up the winding foothills. Off the main freeway, these areas are home to locally owned, non-franchise coffee shops, drive-ins, taquerias, and fruit stands that will restore your appetite and your soul.
Leaving the Bay Area, roll up into Wine Country and take Highway 29 north out of Napa to Calistoga, Middletown, and Clear Lake, then Highway 20 east to Williams. A good rest stop there is Louis Cairo’s Italian restaurant with their famous garlic bread.
Then continue east on Highway 20 through Colusa (side trip to Gray Lodge bird sanctuary and wildlife refuge), Sutter Buttes (a thrilling sight from any direction), Yuba City, Marysville, Smartville, Rough and Ready, Grass Valley, and Nevada City. Then you’re in the Sierra.
This route may take a little longer than the straight freeway shot, but as they say, getting there is half the fun, and you will be much more relaxed when you arrive.
If you have to take I-80, then stop and relax at Awful Annie’s in Auburn’s Old Town. Annie’s is a big old house with good cheap food, such as a scrambled egg dish containing everything but the kitchen sink, and naturally sweet cinnamon tea.
Option B, no driving at all: Amtrak Capitol trains go as far as Sacramento, then dedicated Amtrak buses chug up the hill to Soda Springs/Norden/Boreal/Castle Peak and Truckee. Trains leave the Bay Area several times a day and service is expanding, so check the brand-new and improved Web site at www.amtrak.com or call 800/USA-RAIL.
Ask about advance-purchase, senior, student, and other discounts, plus Web-only deals. AAA cardholders get 10 percent off. No reservations are needed for Capitol trains. The one-way trip takes about four hours.
If you want to blow a little more money on a fancier train, take the California Zephyr to Colfax, Truckee, or Reno (reservations required). Ask your travel agent or Amtrak for details. Consider upgrading your coach seat to a first-class compartment and ride in style, with room service.
All the above trains have on-board food and beverage service. Some have mobile telephone and computer jacks. But the primary activity is sightseeing out the picture windows as you roll along the silvery tracks.
Finally, if you can stand to get up at dawn, Greyhound has a 7 a.m. bus out of San Francisco that goes up the mountain. See www.greyhound.com or call 800/231-2222 or 800/229-9424 for information about advance-purchase, senior, student, and other discounts. The one-way bus trip takes about five hours.