Book Review: Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber

Reviewed by Rick Booth

August, 2001

The book Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber is a fascinating account of the history of rock climbing in Yosemite Valley.  It covers the years of 1933 to 1971 but Roper is mostly concerned with the years of 1947 to 1971 which have been dubbed "the Golden Years" of Yosemite Valley rockclimbing.  It is during this period of time that the first ascents were made of the "big walls" of Yosemite Valley.  These first ascents are certainly marked by their vision and boldness.  In spite of the fact that later routes were harder and bolder there is no denying that being the first to even try these ascents certainly warrants special attention, hence, the "Golden Years" concept is justified.  The Golden Years cover the ten years that Roper spent in the Valley so it is no surprise that this dominates this memoir.  Nonetheless, the description of the early years covering the achievements of Leonard, Brower, Eichorn, and Robinson are as interesting as the Golden Years accounts.  The abrupt ending of the Golden Years is defined by Roper to coincide with Harding's ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Cap.

The book covers the first attempts at climbing in the Valley by various individuals including the now legendary Eichorn, Leonard, Brower and Robinson.  This includes the many attempts on the higher Cathedral Spire.  In spite of the short attention paid to this period Roper fills in many interesting details concerning the structure of Yosemite Valley and the equipment used by these pioneer climbers.  Of interest is the role the Sierra Club played in these early years.  Indeed, the Sierra Club was the only organization with an interest in climbing in the Valley and all of the early climbers were members.  The Sierra Club Bulletin was the definitive document for describing these adventures.  How times have changed.

The early phase of the Golden Years is defined by the climbs of John Salathé.  His invention of the hardened steel piton essentially opened up the possibilities of big wall climbing.  His other contributions included first ascents of the Southwest Face of Half Dome and the Arrow Chimney which essentially defined the first big wall multi-day climb in North America.  Roper gives much credit to this man as a contributor to the Golden Years.

The main part of the book describes the years of 1947 to 1971.  It covers the years spent in the valley by Allen Steck, Mark Powell, Layton Kor, Chuck Pratt, Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, Tom Frost, Warren Harding, and a large collection of other contributors to the Golden Years.  I was most struck by the description of the brilliant but humourless Frank Sacherer.  In these chapters Roper makes a large effort to point out the difference in style between the "Valley Christians" as exemplified by Royal Robbins and the supposed heathens as exemplified by Warren Harding.  It is a fascinating account and even though Roper counts himself as one of the "Valley Christians" he gives Harding his due.

Roper's book includes accounts of the contributions of many other individuals than the main characters filling the Golden Years.  Indeed, the inclusion of Mike Borghoff, Jeff Foott, Joe Fitschen, and others indicates that there were many people interested and bold enough to be making first ascents in the Valley.  The last phase of the "Golden Years" includes a description of the efforts of Schmitz, Madsen, Henneck and Lauria and finally Jim Bridwell.  Jim Bridwell seems to have arrived in the Valley during the supposed closing phase of the "Golden Years", indeed, his arrival signals the start of the efforts by a new generation of Valley climbers.

One of the remarkable features of this book is the large collection of pictures.  Most of the picture credits are given to Glen Denny, another participant in the Golden Years and apparently the only one with a camera.  I was keenly disappointed to not see a picture of Bob Kamps, David Rearick or Wally Reed.  On the other hand, it was several hours before I could actually start reading the book because I kept flipping between the pictures, just fascinated to see faces associated with the many prominent names of Valley climbing history.  It is unfortunate the book ends at 1971 since much has happened since then.  This period will have to be left to another motivated chronicler.  Nonetheless this is a fascinating piece of reading and is recommended for anyone interested in Yosemite Valley or climbing history in general.