Rock Climbing Destinations: Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are located in the town of Idyllwild, California.  Idyllwild is located at about the 5000 foot level on Mount San Jacinto on highway 243.  Mount San Jacinto is one of the prominent peaks in the Los Angeles area and dominates the town of Palm Springs, California.  For climbers visiting LA for other reasons or for a climbing destination that is worth the effort for its own sake, a visit to Tahquitz and Suicide is highly recommended.  While the more popular and well known area of Joshua Tree National Park is nearby, the effort to get to Idyllwild is not significantly more difficult than getting to Joshua Tree, in fact, getting to Idyllwild from the LA basin is easier than getting to Joshua Tree.

To climb at Tahquitz and Suicide is to connect with those who have come before us.  Indeed, the Tahqitz route, "The Mechanics Route", was first put up by Glen Dawson in 1937.  Glen Dawson participated in the more well known first ascent of the East face of Mount Whitney, a coveted prize of most Sierra mountaineers.  A climb of the "The Mechanics Route" will impart an incredible appreciation for the boldness of these early climbers.  "The Mechanics Route" is rated modern 5.8.  The second pitch is unrelenting 5.6 pockets without any bolts or other protection.  This route was done using manila ropes and sneakers! A reading of the first ascencionists of many of the routes at Tahquitz is a list of the many Southern California participants in the "Golden Era" of Yosemite rock climbing: Robins, Herbert, Chouinard, Dawson, Gallwas, and perhaps the most unknown of the group, Chuck Wilts, Cal Tech professor and inventor of the knifeblade piton.

While Tahquitz was the learning and proving ground for those who went on to put up some of the Yosemite big wall classics, Suicide was the proving ground for the generation to follow, the Stonemasters.  Indeed, the "entrance exam" for membership in the Stonemasters was merely to climb the Suicide classic "Valhalla", 5.11a, which was arguably the first 5.11 in Southern California.  This group consisted of John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Eric Accomazzo, and others.  These climbers went on to put up some of the hardest routes in the country, indeed, John Long participated in the freeing of "Astroman" on Washington Column in Yosemite Valley.  During this period of time Tony Yaniro put up "The Pirate" on Suicide which is rated 5.12d.

Climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide is about as convenient as it gets.  The town of Idyllwild has two campgrounds and many restaurants, some which are quite reasonable.  There used to be a movie theater in the center of town, however, I am not sure if it is still there.  The trail to Tahquitz leaves from the road which ends at a circle at Humber Park and the trail to Suicide leaves from the road a few hundred yards before the end of the road.  Access time to Tahquitz is about 45 minutes or so and the access to Suicide is about half that.  The trail to Tahquitz is steep and sort of loose.  Bring a penny to pound into the log across the trail near the top.  You will recognize this log immediately.  This trail ends at Lunch Rock where packs may be left.  Most people stack their packs in the litter stashed there in a vain attempt to keep their lunch from falling victim to the "Tahquitz attack squirrels".  The hike to Suicide leaves the climber near the base of the Weeping Wall, home of many greasy friction fests!

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is granite and is similar to the granite found in Yosemite Valley.  The latest guide book is "Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks" by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines.  My version is by the Chockstone Press but Chockstone has been sold to Falcon Publishing.  Earlier guide books have been written by Randy Vogel and an even earlier version was written by Chuck Wilts.  Recommended routes at Tahquitz are "Fingertrip", 5.7, "Traitor Horn", 5.8, "Mechanics Route", 5.8, "Open Book", 5.9, "Super Pooper", 5.10a (supposedly), and "The Vampire", 5.11a.  At Suicide the recommended routes are "The Guillotine", 5.8 (run it out and blow it and you will get the "chop"!), "Flower of High Rank", 5.9, "Ten Karat Gold", 5.10a, "Sundance", 5.10b, and "Valhalla", 5.11a.  You won't be disappointed.

Getting to the town of Idyllwild is done from either Hemet, California, via route 74 or from Banning, California, via route 243.  The nearest airports are Palm Springs and Ontario if you are flying into the area.  Camping is available at the state campground and the county campground.  "Mattress people" (boulderers) may prefer the county campground since there is decent bouldering on some rocks in or near the campground.  The state park is Mount San Jacinto State Park and is located right off highway 243 near downtown Idyllwild.  Information may be obtained at 909-659-2607 and reservations may be made at 800-444-7275.  The county park is located near the state park but off on a side street.  Information for Idyllwild County Park may be obtained at 909-659-2656 and reservations made at 800-234-7275.  There used to be "free" camping up in Humber Park which was achieved by parking there and sneaking off into the woods.  Unfortunately, Humber Park falls under the wonderful "Adventure Pass" program and the last I knew the rangers would occasionally bust people camping up there.  My friends Jack and Gretchen inform me that they have been using the same "Adventure Pass" for two years so the enforcement is apparently not very diligent.

The suggested restaurants in Idyllwild are as follows.  For breakfasts try Jan's Red Kettle, a climbers hangout forever near the center of town, the Idyllwild Café on highway 243 heading out towards Hemet, and the Bread Basket on North Circle Drive heading towards Humber Park.  Dinners are available at the Bread Basket, the Gastrognome (good but expensive), Idyllwild Pizza Company near the center of town, and Vercollini's Italian Restaurant (the best) which is also on highway 243.  There are one or two Mexican places in town but they seem to change names frequently so you will have to ask around if that is your preference.  Finally, for emergency services in Idyllwild, call 911.  Be nice to the paramedics and say hi to Jack Peckham!