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The Dirty Dozen
Bruce Bindner (aka Brutus of Wyde) put together a collection of twelve climbs in the Sierra highcountry for the Rock Rendezvous Climbing Club newletters spanning May 1997 through April 1998.  While most of these trip report/descriptions and topos remain unpublished outside the RR newsletter, a few of them have made their way onto the web.  We hope that Bruce chooses to share them more widely in the future.

The Dirty Dozen:  12 Climbs in the Sierra Highcountry

  1. South Face, Red Baron Tower (III 5.10)
  2. Direct East Face, Mt. Whitney (IV/V, 5.9 A3 or 5.10+)
  3. Hairline, Mt. Whitney (V 5.10 A3)
  4. Hot Damn!, North Face, Mt. Chamberlin (V 5.10 A2 / free var. V 5.10+)
  5. Direct East Face, Tulainyo Tower (IV, 5.8 A3 or 5.10c)
  6. East Face Dihedrals, Regge Pole (III 5.11)
  7. Milktoast Chimney, South Face, Peak 12,960+ (III 5.8)
  8. Sierra September, Bath Mountain (III/IV 5.10a)
  9. East Face, Aiguille Extra (IV 5.10a)
  10. Spike Hairdoo, Castle Rock Spire (III/IV 5.10 A3) [trip report]
  11. NE Buttress, Banner Peak (III 5.6/5.7)
  12. Zig-Zag Dihedral, South Face, Peak 12,960+ (IV 5.9)

The second edition of Climbing California's High Sierra (John Moynier and Claude Fiddler) contains information on several of these climbs:

  1. South Face, Red Baron Tower (III 5.10) [pg. 52]
  2. North Face, Mt. Chamberlin (V 5.10 A2 / free var. V 5.10+) [pg. 48]
  3. Direct East Face, Tulainyo Tower (IV 5.10) [pg. 96]
  4. Milktoast Chimney, Red Baron Tower (III 5.8) [p. 52]
  5. East Face, Aiguille Extra (IV 5.10a) [p. 63]

You can find other good route topos & beta at www.bigwall.com.


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